Injury Prevention for Young Climbers: A Crucial Guide to Safe Strength Training
Building a “bone bank”
Young climbers are eager to push their limits, and climbing is an excellent sport to start at a young age. The benefits of a healthy diet and exercise for growing bodies are well-known, but it's equally important to understand how climbing aids bone development.
Most bone density and strength are acquired by the ages of 18 to 20. Thus, the more bone tissue and mass kids can accumulate in their “bone bank,” the better their bones will fare in later years, helping to prevent fractures, osteoarthritis, and other ailments.
Proper training for both muscles and bones during growth is essential. Enrolling in a youth training program at your local climbing gym is a fantastic way to get professional advice on appropriate training routines for young climbers.
The Risks of Sports
Every sport carries some risk of injury, contributing to their thrill and excitement. Tennis, baseball, athletics, and other sports involving repetitive joint and bone impacts can adversely affect growing bodies if young athletes don't train safely. Bouldering and rock climbing are no different. Beyond falls and knocks, there is a lesser-known risk for young climbers from excessive strength and impact training.
Growth Plate Injuries
Growth plate injuries can occur when young athletes push their limits beyond what their growing bones can handle. This may result from performing dynamic or repetitive moves involving high-impact or weight-bearing holds that stress the soft tissues in the bones. These injuries are not unique to climbing but are also prevalent in football, baseball, gymnastics, and other high-impact sports.
It is crucial for parents, trainers, and athletes to recognize these risks and address any symptoms immediately. Ignoring these injuries can cause long-term damage and inhibit bone growth. In rock climbers, this could affect the arms, wrists, and fingers—essential for climbing!
Understanding Growth Plates
Growth plates are areas of tissue near the ends of developing bones in children. These plates eventually harden, determining the future length and form of mature bones. Due to their softness, they are more susceptible to injury. Growth plates typically harden and close near the end of puberty, becoming mature by age 18, although this can happen earlier for girls than boys.
Recognising Growth Plate Injuries
Symptoms of a growth plate injury include:
- Persistent pain and tenderness after training or a sudden or overuse injury.
- Deformity, warmth, or swelling at the end of a bone.
- Changes in how the child bends their limb.
- Inability to move, put pressure on, or bear weight on a limb because of pain.
If you suspect a growth plate injury, consult a doctor and refrain from training until cleared.
Preventing Growth Plate Injuries
Children’s bodies mature at different times and rates, so a conservative approach is best. Having a good trainer and not over-exerting is key to learning how to climb safely. When climbing without a trainer, it’s important to warm up and stretch properly, avoid pushing too hard, and steer clear of extreme changes in activity.
Using the right equipment properly is also vital. Exercises like campus board training should be avoided by young climbers, and the use of crimps should be limited.
Smart Use of Crux Gear
Crux Gear holds should be used in moderation and never with excessive weights. Growing kids should avoid attaching additional weights to their bodies during pull-ups or hanging exercises. When using the MagBoard or Hang Rocks, always use open-hand grips and avoid crimps.
It may be tempting to add more weight to the gear because it feels easier to hold, but keeping all the above in mind is crucial for safe training. Use common sense and ensure you train smart with your gear.
https://www.bones.nih.gov/health-info/bone/bone-health/juvenile
https://adc.bmj.com/content/90/4/373
https://www.niams.nih.gov/health-topics/growth-plate-injuries
https://kidshealth.org/en/parents/growth-plates.html
https://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/growth-plate-fractures/symptoms-causes/syc-20351979
https://www.nationwidechildrens.org/conditions/sports-medicine-growth-plate-injuries
https://physivantage.com/blogs/news/youth-rock-climbing-overuse-injuries-and-prevention
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/should-u18s-use-campus-boards-finger-injuries