Which Crux Gear Finger Board Is Right for You?
When it comes to finger strength, not all tools are created equal. Some are versatile “do-everything” options, while others are specialists that shine in specific scenarios. Whether you’re warming up at the crag, building max crimp strength, or pushing your progression indoors, here’s how the MagBoard Mini, Edge Board, Arch Board, and Hang Rock stack up.
Quick Comparison Table
|
Product |
Edge Depths |
Contact Radius |
Best For |
Portability |
Extras |
|
MagBoard Mini |
Adjustable 20 mm → 6 mm (with inserts) |
Neutral 3 mm |
All-round training, progression, micro-edge work |
Ultra-portable |
Magnetic inserts |
|
Edge Board |
22 mm & 16 mm (reversible cord) |
Softer 6 mm |
Crimp strength, repeatable max efforts |
Ultra-portable |
Carabiner included |
|
Arch Board |
22 mm (2 curved profiles) |
Softer 6–8 mm |
Warm-ups, long sessions, joint-friendly use |
Ultra-portable |
Carabiner included |
|
Hang Rock |
20 mm & 12 mm (dual edges) |
Neutral 3 mm |
Home setups, paired training, fast progression |
Semi-portable |
Wall-mountable |
MagBoard Mini: The Versatile All-Rounder
If you only want one board, this is it. The MagBoard Mini adapts from 20 mm all the way down to micro 6 mm edges, giving you progression built in. It is compact, light, and travels anywhere, making it the go-to for climbers who want one tool to grow with them. Beginners love it for starting safe, while advanced climbers rely on it for micro-edge training they can’t get anywhere else.
Edge Board: The Crimp Specialist
Sometimes simple is better. The Edge Board strips things back to two fixed depths (22 mm & 16 mm) so you can focus on repeatable, measurable hangs. Its flat profile and softer 6 mm contact radius balance comfort with intensity, making it the perfect pocket tool for max strength sessions.
Arch Board: The Ergo Trainer
Not every session needs to be max effort. The Arch Board features curved profiles designed for comfort, longer hangs, and joint-friendly training. It’s especially useful for warm-ups, rehab, and endurance sessions where you want to reduce strain without sacrificing grip work.
Hang Rock: The Mini Hangboard Alternative
For climbers who want something closer to a traditional hangboard but looks and feels more like a natural rock, the Hang Rock is it. Available as a single or pair, it offers two quick-switch depths (20 mm & 12 mm) without flipping cords. Use it at home, wall-mounted, or clipped up at the crag. It’s the choice for fast progression sessions and a full-hangboard feel without the bulk.
Choosing Your First (or Next) Board
- New to grip training? Start with the MagBoard Mini — it gives you range, safety, and progression.
-
Chasing max crimp strength? The Edge Board keeps things tight and repeatable.
Prioritizing longevity or warm-ups? The Arch Board has your joints covered. - Want a home setup? The Hang Rock offers dual-depth stability and hangboard-like options with the feel of an outdoor rock face.
- Each tool has its sweet spot. Some climbers stick with one, others mix and match. The right choice depends on your goals, style, and training space.
FAQ
Which board is best for me as a beginner?
If you’re just getting started, the MagBoard Mini is the most versatile option. It ranges from 20 mm down to 6 mm edges, so you can start easy and progress as your fingers adapt. Think of it as a journey board — one tool that grows with you.
How is the Edge Board different from the MagBoard Mini?
The Edge Board is a specialist tool. It keeps things simple with two fixed flat edges (22 mm & 16 mm) and is perfect for climbers who want repeatable, measurable crimp sessions without fussing with inserts.
When should I choose the Arch Board?
The Arch Board focuses on comfort and longer sessions. Its curved edges reduce strain, making it a go-to for rehab, warm-ups, high-volume training, or climbers prioritizing joint health.
What about the Hang Rock?
The Hang Rock is closer to a classic small hangboard but with a natural stony look and feel. It can be wall-mounted or used as a pair and offers two quick-switch depths (20 mm & 12 mm) — ideal for fast progression sessions or those who prefer a traditional feel.
Do I need more than one board?
Not necessarily. Many climbers start with the MagBoard Mini and stay with it for years. But if you want to fine-tune your grip work, pairing a versatile tool like the MagBoard with a specialized one (Edge, Arch, or Hang Rock) gives you more options for targeted training.
What’s the difference in contact radius?
MagBoard Mini uses a neutral 3 mm contact radius, while the Edge and Arch Boards offer softer (6–8 mm) or tighter (2 mm) options. This changes how the edge feels on your finger pads — tighter radii mimic rock edges more closely, while softer radii are kinder on skin during long sessions.