The Mental Game of Climbing
In climbing, mental training is just as important as physical training, but most climbers neglect it entirely. We spoke to Sarah Hutto, competitive climber, coach, and route setter about climbing and the importance of training your mind.
Sarah Hutto - competitive climber, coach, and route setter
Your body is capable of far more than what your mind allows you to believe. As a climbing coach, I often hear:
- I need to get stronger
- I need to train harder
- I need to work on my technique
These are all true. A well planned, intentional training program helps any climber. But there is one element most climbers miss completely: training the mind.
So, my question to you: Is your brain holding you back?
Why the Mind Matters in Climbing
Climbing is a mental game.
The joy of problem solving and the satisfaction of piecing together a climb keeps many people hooked for life, but there is a darker side too - Fear of falling and repeated failure before the send - are a constant internal battle climbers know well.
Negative or fearful thinking is built into the sport. Most climbers recognise how much their mental state affects performance, yet few take deliberate steps to train it.
This article highlights two major mental blockages that affect climbers most, with practical ways to work through them.
Jonah Waldbaum studying beta at Coolum Cave, QLD, Australia.
Tackling the Fear of Falling
I take a different view of falling than many coaches. I do not believe in pushing anyone to do something their body is not ready for. The fear of falling is valid. It is your brain trying to keep you safe. Respect that instinct, but do not let it halt progress.
When I coach someone through a scary move, I ask two questions:
- Can you fall safely?
- Is your body capable of doing this move?
If the answer to both is no, we focus on physical preparation:
- Learning to fall safely.
- Building the strength to hold positions.
- Refining technique for control.
Grip strength is often the limiter, so we build simple routines for crimp and sloper strength.
Sarah Hutto grip strengthening with Crux Gear Mag Board Mini at Bould Move, QLD, Australia.
If either answer is yes, we shift to mental training to help rewire the brain’s understanding of safety and capability. Without mental alignment, even an easy move can feel dangerous. Confidence, focus, and awareness of fall zones are essential for safe sends.
- When fear lingers due to height, awkward holds, or fall zones, we practise falling safely in controlled ways.
- On slabs, I encourage climbers to kick off the fall. Practising the fall first helps the brain accept that the movement is manageable and safe.
- If the issue is physical strength, skill, or timing, we adjust the move, find regressions, and practise until it feels natural.
Many climbers fear trusting full weight to small crimps. Ground based strength work shows what fingers can hold before trying it higher up. Dynamic moves like dynos cause similar fear. With a safe fall zone, progressive attempts build trust. Create safe, repeatable patterns to retrain the brain to view movement accurately, not fearfully. Once body and mind align, confidence follows.
Jonah Waldbaum in a comfortable fall, Coolum Cave, QLD, Australia.
The Constant Nature of Failure
Climbing is built on failure. Projecting means trying, failing, adjusting, and trying again. It's easy to justify a missed flash as the wrong beta, bad conditions, or a route that's too hard, but repeated failure over hours or days can wear people down.
That cycle can harm self perception and drain motivation. I have watched many climbers spiral into self doubt that affects performance. There is no single fix. Goals and experiences shape how we handle setbacks.
Perspective helps most. Remember how fortunate we are to climb. Time, strength, and access to move our bodies on rock is a privilege.
Brooklyn Whitehead preparing to climb.
Reframing Progress and Self Expectation
I started climbing in my mid 30s. It is easy to get caught in what ifs and frustration. That mindset hurts performance. Re centering on why I climb - because I love it - changes everything. I am not an elite climber, and that is okay. The only person expecting perfection is me.
Letting go brings freedom. Climbing becomes joyful again, not tied to outcomes but to the act itself.
Finding Growth in the Process
Projecting, and climbing in general, becomes about learning. Each climb offers a chance to analyse, adjust, and grow, mentally and physically.
- Learn something new
- Strengthen awareness
- Appreciate what the body can do
Approach climbing as lifelong study in movement, and each session becomes meaningful, whether you send or not.
Author Bio
Sarah is a competitive climber, coach, and route setter. With a background in gymnastics and calisthenics, she is passionate about helping climbers train efficiently for strength, longevity, and enjoyment.